Pale straw yellow in aspect, with a tightly packed bouquet of citrus fruit, green apple and pronounced minerality. On the palate, firm notes of lime, lemon and white peach, with fantastic structure and masses of acidity, and a long, mineral finish. One for the cellar, or to serve with smoked salmon, seafood and shellfish.

Didier Dagueneau used to be known as the "wild man of Pouilly", not only for his hirsute appearance (long curly hair and a dramatic beard) but also for his ideas. He was recognised as the best producer in the appelation. The motorcycling fanatic Didier still raised the hackles of his Pouilly neighbours by accusing them of bottling wine cocktails - a mixture of wine and sugar. He crusaded to redeem the reputation of Pouilly Fumé by slashing yields in half and tilling his vineyards with horses instead of using a tractor. The secret of this perfectionist's success lied in his scrupulous attention to detail at every stage of the winemaking process, from vineyard management (biodynamic since 1993) to the cellar, where work proceeds in textbook fashion.

Having died at the early age of 52 in a flying accident in September 2008, the number of his wines available is now extremely limited