There is an apocryphal joke that goes around the wine trade about the customer who regularly buys Chablis but vehemently rejects anything with Chardonnay on the label on the grounds of it being an “awful grape”. Well, I can understand how this myth has evolved as the Chardonnay grape is so widely planted and produces such a variation of styles; some absolutely fabulous and some, sadly, lacking in anything pleasant!
But just think about the good ones. Chardonnay’s home is France; Burgundy to be more specific and it is these wines that form the bench mark for Chardonnay styles all over the world. From the cooler Northern Burgundy where the flinty, cool and dry Chablis is produced to the Southern slopes of the Cote de Beaune from which there is a myriad of villages producing the most stunning, rich, characteristic wines which will last and last. Try a mouth filling Meursault or a delightful Pernand Vergelesses. And, not a mention of Chardonnay on the label!
The wine pioneers in the new world must have been so chuffed to find out that not only was Chardonnay such a spectacular fruit source but that it would grow pretty much anywhere; prolifically if you give it plenty of water. And that was the first mistake! Gallons of Chardonnay wine was made from almost anywhere a grape could ripen, quite often completely overpowered with raw oak flavours from the use of oak chips during fermentation, but virtually none came anywhere near the classic French wines that they were trying to emulate. Mistake two! Planting Chardonnay does not give you Puligny Montrachet!
Now much of the rest of the world have at last understood that less is more. In well managed vineyards controlled lower yields almost always means better quality grapes which invariably means better wine. This top quality fruit gives the modern winemakers the confidence to produce their own style of Chardonnay. It is crucial that the winemaker understands how this incredibly versatile grape has grown in the vineyards. This will tell them if oak can be used. If so, should it be French or America, should it be 100% oak, 30% oak or maybe no oak at all?
However, this is not our problem! All we have to do is trust the good work that these guys do, and we should appreciate that Chardonnay, even when it is not Chablis, can be fantastic. For an un-oaked style why not try the Old Coach Road Chardonnay from New Zealand, bursting with passion fruit and hints of melon. However, if you do like oak, subtle and well balanced then the Sarantos Chardonnay from Australia or the Chassagne Montrachet from Lupe Cholet, Burgundy are perfect choices.
Yours in Wine
Ruth Yates.
Last updated: December 02, 2007